Regular – Page 3 – 4 Kidneys and a Wonky Leg

Day 110 Aug 18th. Treatment Day.

Aug 21, 2022luffin2Leave a comment

Eight o clock and the harbour master is moving boats around to enable us to have a walk ashore pontoon berth for the day. This will allow the nurse easy access to the boat for Louise’s treatment at 9 o clock. Apart from the fact that it was raining all went very well. It was a very nice spot not quite so overlooked as the harbour wall. It would have been nice to be able to stay there, but we were in a private berth which the owners had kindly allowed us to use. Whilst there, a chap came to the pontoon and asked how long I’d had the boat, and who I had purchased it from. It turned out that he was working for Patrick Boyd Multihulls from whom I’d bought it, and was responsible for assembling and commissioning Watanga. We chatted about this and that and one thing led to another and he ended up at the top of the mast replacing my broken screecher halyard. Nice chap.

Next surprise of the day was Andy Barker turning up to say hello, down in Rock for a second week, this time competing in his Osprey. Really nice of him to pop over and have a chat.

Treatment finished, and we had to move the boat again, this time at peak tourist and crabbing time. So a plan was formulated and the execution was luckily almost perfect. Nothing for the tourists to laugh about. We did upset about 6 families that were crabbing off the wall where we berthed, but I suspect that there were one or two parents glad to be given the excuse to take their kids elsewhere.

Having sorted the boat out, we went to have a look at the National Lobster Hatchery which sounds like a huge enterprise but sadly is only a small concern and inexplicably not helped by the government. The potential for this kind of enterprise being sadly overlooked.

We may move on tomorrow, it will depend on tomorrows’ weather forecast.

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The Wessex Kidney Patients Association is a charity that helps patients and their families deal with the upheaval caused by Kidney disease. If you enjoy reading our blog please consider giving to this cause . Many thanks Louise & Martin

Day 109 Aug 17th Padstow and Rock

Aug 20, 2022Aug 20, 2022luffin2Leave a comment

Time to explore, I’m sure I’ve been to Padstow but I can’t remember it. The different perspectives of arriving by sea and being in the harbour, rather than arriving by road and looking at the harbour is quite pronounced. There is a certain feeling of being part of the entertainment, especially when you have to move the boat around, as we did.

We had a very nice meal at St Petroc’s Bistro today one of Rick Steins establishments. In the afternoon we took the ferry across to Rock in search of the winner of the Camel week Shrimper regatta and ex local boy, our very own Andy Barker. We didn’t find him, but the ferry was an interesting experience. At low tide the ferry boats just drive up onto the steep shoaling beach, the front flap drops down and you walk off, D day landings style, trekking off up the soft sandy beach.

Rock, sadly was a bit of a let down (sorry Andy) just a sailing club, a couple of bars and eateries and lots of holiday homes, Sandbanks style.

We have to be up early tomorrow to move the boat to the other side of the harbour.

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Days108 Aug 16th Padstow Its Raining!

Aug 17, 2022luffin2Leave a comment

It rained, I guess you will all know that, as it just about rained everywhere in Britain on Tuesday. In the morning we sat out the heavy stuff from the comfort of the boat, whilst the true grit Brits on holiday continued with their crab fishing off the harbour wall. The seagulls didn’t look too happy either. By the afternoon there was only a light drizzle, on and off, so we went exploring along toward Stepper point for a view of the Doom Bar at low tide.

Then down to Gun point and into Harbour cove, the sands of which form the Doom Bar.

According to local folklore, the Doom Bar was created by the Mermaid of Padstow as a dying curse after being shot. In 1906, Enys Tregarthen wrote that a Padstow local, Tristram Bird, bought a new gun and wanted to shoot something worthy of it. He went hunting seals at Hawker’s Cove but found a young woman sitting on a rock brushing her hair. Entranced by her beauty, he offered to marry her and when she refused he shot her in retaliation, only realising afterwards that she was a mermaid. As she died she cursed the harbour with a “bar of doom”, from Hawker’s Cove to Trebetherick Bay. A terrible gale blew up that night and when it finally subsided there was the sandbar, “covered with wrecks of ships and bodies of drowned men”.

Tomorrows highlight is a a meal in St Petroc’s Bistro, a Rick Stein restuarant.

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Days 106-107 Neyland to Padstow.

Aug 16, 2022luffin21 Comment

Sunday was a bit of a slow day, having done all our jobs, we only had to move out of the marina and go back to the anchorage at Castlebeach Bay ready for our passage to Padstow the following day. By moving we achieve two things, we avoid having to get out of the marina at some ridiculous time in the morning and we knock almost 2 hours off an already long passage of 14 hours. There was actually a third thing although we couldn’t have anticipated it, we missed the smoke and ash from a grassfire near the Neyland marina. (See photo)

Monday we woke at 0515, and not having been awake this early for a while it came as a surprise that it was still dark. Not that it was a problem, just that I hadn’t anticipated navigating the harbour entrance in the dark. As it happened, by the time we weighed anchor at 0600 there was some pre – dawn light. We were also delayed a little waiting to cross the shipping lane 🚢 , as a very large tanker, 4 tug boats and a pilot boat went past. Once clear of the harbour it was pretty much a straight line course to follow for the next ten hours. After a brief spell of sailing, the motor went on as the sea breeze died and we settled down to our hour on, hour off, routine of helming.

But today was a day of Dolphins with sightings once or twice per hour more or less all the way. Many were pairs, but we also saw some pods of up to twenty, one of which came to play around the boat.

As we neared the Cornish coast the sea breeze kicked in again and we got to sail for a bit as we fought an increasingly strong cross tide to enter Padstow Bay and cross the infamous Doom Bar. Doom Bar is a sandbank that can in some weather conditions be very treacherous and is the site of some 200 known shipwrecks. It’s also a well known brand of beer!

By 20.00h, after some 14 hours passage we were safely rafted up in Padstow Harbour.

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Day 105 Aug 13th Busy Day.

Aug 14, 2022luffin2Leave a comment

Well, having travelled from North Wales to here (Milford Haven) without visiting a Marina for a week we had a few things to do. Priority was a full english breakfast at the marine cafe to set us up for the day. That done, filling up with fuel and water, and while the hose was out we gave the boat a quick rinse, to get all the salt off. There were clothes and bedding to be laundered and Lou gave the boat a hoover and a wash through, hopefully the last time we need to do this before getting home! Yes, we are thinking now in terms of days and weeks to go, instead of how many days have gone by. I bought a couple of pulley blocks from the chandlery to renew the screecher halyard system, although I’m not sure who is going up the mast to retrieve the halyard. Lastly there was a trip to the supermarket to stock up on essentials. Oh, one more thing, we have had to store the fenders on the deck (very untidy) because the forward locker had the Screecher very roughly stuffed in it. So with a nice pontoon to lay it out on, we got that rolled up and stowed away nicely. Now there’s room for the fenders as well!

Time for a beer, and a piece of cake, funny combination but it was too hot for coffee. It was also too hot to sit on the boat which in the marina was in a bit of a sun trap, so we went for a walk in the nature reserve at the end of the marina, nicely shaded by trees.

By the end of the day I’d completed nearly 19000 steps, it was definitely time for bed.

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Days 103-104 Aug 11-12. Milford Haven.

Aug 13, 2022luffin2Leave a comment

Life has slowed down a little, as we soak up the warm weather. We are now one step away from Padstow although it is a big trip of 70 miles or so. We have kindly been promised a walk ashore berth at Padstow for next Thursday but we are arriving on the Monday evening so not sure how that’s going to pan out.

Meanwhile it’s been hot and windless the past few days and we have spent most of it at anchor in a fairly secluded Castlebeach Bay. We ventured round the corner to Dale where we had lunch at the Dale Yacht Club, aka COCO’S, a pizza and tapas restuarant on Thursday. Friday afternoon we took a leisurely sail up to Neyland Marina. To give you some idea of the size of Milford Haven, Neyland Marina is 7 miles from the entrance and there are still large ferries and tankers to contend with that far in.. We are in the upper basin at Neyland which means we have restricted access to the open sea over a cill (dam) that keeps the water in. Thus we can only leave at higher states of tide.

We did get a top view of the Sturgeon Moon Rising on Thursday night.

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Day 104 Aug 10 Fishguard to Milford Haven.

Aug 12, 2022luffin22 Comments

Up at 0600 today, a crisp bright morning, the boat all wet with morning dew. A quick breakfast and we were off on a smooth flat sea. Just a few fishing boats here and there re-laying their lobster pots.

The first three hours are a doddle, just staying staying on a line between Strumble head and St Davids Head. Its as we turn south the fun begins, the speed over the ground increasing steadily with more and more tide rushing through the gap between the mainland and Ramsey Island. It’s a reasonably wide Sound but even on this very calm day the water is churning violently in places as it swirls round the various hidden rocks. We pick our way through encouraged by the fact the lifeboat station is very close at hand should we need it!

Then all of a sudden you are out the other end, the sea calms and we set course across St Brides Bay for the gap between Skomer and the Mainland, Jack sound. It’s a similar story to Ramsey Sound, as we accelerate toward the gap between the rocks this time only 150 metres wide. To add to the mix theres a dive boat in the way, hard core divers on an extreme drift dive. The photo’s don’t give a realistic view of the water, but there were some serious whirlpools going on in and after this short stretch of the passage. After Jack Sound it’s another hour or so before we enter Milford Haven and find the quiet, Castlebeach Bay to anchor in for lunch and as it turns out the night.

We’re here in Milford Haven for a few days before our passage to Padstow.

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Day 103 Aug 9th Fishguard.

Aug 10, 2022luffin2Leave a comment

To go to Milford Haven from Fishguard safely you have to have good weather and get the timing of the tides right. We were given this information by the harbourmaster who gave us a detailed route map describing the whole journey and just about every rock to avoid. It seems that you should leave at HW Fishguard, and maintain a boatspeed of 5knts all the way. Tomorrow HW is 0630, which is not too early, and the weather is just right.

So it was a rest day in Fishguard, the town itself is up on the top of the hill and was quite a climb. We had a coffee and grabbed some supplies from the Co-op. In the afternoon we had a quick lunch in the Fishguard Bay Yacht club, before visiting St George’s Fort up on the headland.

Then a quiet evening on the boat and an early night ready for tomorrows passage.

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Day 102. Aberdaron to Fishguard.

Aug 9, 2022luffin2Leave a comment

Nothing much to say about today, weigh anchor, set a course of 190° Motor for 8 hrs, anchor. Job done.

Not quite that simple but essentially a quite boring passage, (all open sea for almost 60 miles and at midway you are at least 30 miles from land in any direction).

Wales being quite mountainous and it being a clear day was visible through about 200 degrees at one point.

One highlight just before entering Fishguard was a pod of dolphins (Short beaked Commons I think ) that swam past and around the boat. On entering Fishguard it was much larger than I remembered, (It was about 45 years ago I last came). We found the southern anchorage and decided to use one of the mooring bouys.

We shall stay for two nights here as the weather is settled and I want to find out some local knowledge about the trip round to Milford Haven, which after reading the Almanac, makes Pentland Firth look like a walk in the Park!

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Day 101 Aug 7th Caernarfon to Aberdaron

Aug 9, 2022luffin2Leave a comment

With the marina cill not being opened until 0700 hours, it was going to be a close run thing to get across the Caernarfon Bar before the water got too shallow. The tide runs fast here, so no time to waste, the channel changes regularly but the navigation bouys are resited often.

A stroke of luck in that a few crews had met the harbour master in the pub the night before and persuaded him to open the cill earlier at 0630. Happy days, a bit more leeway, just needing to identify the channel.

All went well and we were soon motor sailing in the light morning breeze, the screecher sail gently aiding our progress. Lou was on helm, I was inside making a cuppa when there was a loud bang, Lou watched me as I searched in vain for the source of the noise, then suddenly said, ” What’s happened to the sail?” I was just about to say ” You’re luffing again ” when I saw through the window that there was no sail!! How can there be no sail, it was there a second ago. Rushing on deck I found it having a wash in the sea. I dragged it back on board and straight into the forward locker. The pulley at the masthead had shattered, letting the head of the sail go.

that will be another trip up the mast and new pulleys. We were lucky none of the ropes or the sail got caught in the propeller.

The wind got lighter as the day wore on but at the end of the Lleyn Peninsular the sea got choppy then rough, and as we were passing Bardsey Island there was a graunching sound and the whole boat shuddered, what the hell, depth guage 28 metres, chartplotter, no obstructions, We cut the engine and raised the drive leg, nothing. Although we didn’t see anything we can only assume we hit a partially submerged object. It left us a bit jittery for the rest of the journey, anchoring up off Aberdaron beach for the night.

We had hoped to go to Pwllheli marina but they had no berths available, Aberystwyth doesn’t answer the phone at weekends, Fishguard is only an Anchorage, and the whole of Cardigan bay is a firing range. Bit of a yachting desert really.

Next stop Fishguard.

Day 100 Aug 6th Caernarfon

Aug 8, 2022luffin2Leave a comment

A day in port, for two reasons. Firstly I had not appreciated that the harbour didn’t work 24hrs and so we were locked in at the time we needed to exit in order to catch the tide out of the southern end of the straits. You are warned not to attempt crossing the Caernarfon Bar at any time other than HW ±3. Secondly, we wanted to visit the castle.

We took our time visiting the castle and the city walls, learnt a little about the British Civil wars from Charles Cordell who was there promoting his book, and stood where Prince Charles was invested as Prince of Wales. Even watched some re-enactment going on. It was market day and so we bought some fresh fruit & veg, and also a replacement fuel can from the local hardware shop.

Back at the marina we filled said container and others and the tanks, we have a settled few days so there’s going to be lots of motoring!

We treated ourselves to a pub meal at the famous Black Boy Inn, one of the oldest pubs in North Wales built circa 1522.

Back to the boat for an early night, ready for an early start tomorrow.

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Day 99 Aug 5th. Moelfre to Caernarvon.

Aug 7, 2022Aug 7, 2022luffin21 Comment

Only twenty miles to go today but important to get the tides just right for traversing the Menai Straits. Now there’s no denying that the Menai Straits and in particular an area called “the Swellies” can be a dangerous stretch of water to navigate. However, it’s a bit like changing an electrical socket, if you turn the current off then there’s no problem. If you do it with the current on, you could get a shock.

The equivalent to turning off the current is to traverse the dangerous bits at High Water when there is no current, (and of course lots of water depth). The tricky bit is timing but I won’t bore you with that bit. The rest is just following a quite narrow and winding path past all the various rocks, shallows and of course the wreck of the HMS Conway.

The day started cloudy and cool, with an annoying family in a speedboat, water skiing through the moorings repeatedly. The timing of our run through the Straights meant we didn’t have to start until midday which meant some time to catch up on the blog..

Entering the North end of the Strait, past Puffin Island, (a different one) the quite choppy sea flattened as we poottled in still a little ahead of schedule, the sun came out and the rest can be said in pictures.

No real problems, as we leisurely made our way down the 14 miles to Caernarvon marina. If anything, we were a little too early going through as the tide was quite strong against us under the Menai bridge, that said, by the time we were passing Plas Newydd the tide was under us and going into the narrow harbour entrance a few miles later with 2.5 kts of cross tide was quite tricky.

It’s a lovely marina, lots of friendly helping hands, really good showers, and an on the ball, Dockmaster.

We will stay here two nights. Tomorrow we’ll explore the town.

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Day 98 August 4th Douglas to Anglesey

Aug 6, 2022luffin2Leave a comment

A good wind forecast giving us somewhere between a run and a broad reach will hopefully make for a pleasant journey. With high tide around 4am this morning we had to get out of the marina by 5.45 am latest, before the marina gate closed. Yawn! another early start. Still it meant we would be at our destination by early afternoon.

First delay was the arrival of the ‘Ben my Chree’ passenger ferry, & Port control asking us to wait and stay clear.

Ok fair enough, wouldn’t want to mess with that!

Once on our way, we left Douglas in the rain and headed south. After the strong winds of the last couple of days the sea state was quite rough, despite there being only moderate winds. There was only us for the first 6 hours but it became busy with ferries from Liverpool, criss crossing our path as we neared the north coast of wales

Moelfre could be picked out from the coastline by the roof of the RNLI Station and happily on arrival the sea was flat and free of swell. We anchored up in 7 metres of water at exactly HW Moelfre, giving us 2.5 metres when the tide went out, and thats on neaps.

Going ashore we watched the lifeboat launch and speed off. We wandered around the village and coast path with Louise recalling childhood memories.

We had an ice cream, then went and got chips to have with some chicken back at the boat. It had been a long day so early to bed. Tomorrow we head for Caernarvon, through the Menai Straights.

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Day 97 Aug 3rd. A day of jobs.

Aug 5, 2022luffin2Leave a comment

Nothing much to report, We did the usual stuff of getting provisions for the coming week. Doing a few jobs about the boat. Some cleaning, that sort of thing. Dropped the cap off the fuel can into the marina. Damn! that’s useless now.

And looking forward, here’s the weather for the passage tomorrow

The wind looks favourable, as we are going almost dead south to Anglesey and the Menai Straights. We will pass by Moelfre which holds lots of childhood memories for Louise, and if it’s suitable we’ll anchor there for the night, i thats not suitable we’ll continue on to Beaumaris for the night.

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Day 95,96. August 1st-2nd Douglas.

Aug 3, 2022Aug 3, 2022luffin22 Comments

It is hard to believe that on Friday last, we were in the Crinan Canal. It seems so long ago. Just over 140 miles later and here we are in Douglas waiting for some fair winds.

We’ve spent most of the day cleaning and doing laundry, and we will be here until at least Thursday and maybe longer. Having caught up with our schedule, this will put us back again. Looking ahead there are precious few marina’s in North Wales and anchorages of course are always weather dependant. The alternative is some more long passages or head for the Irish East coast.

For the moment our plan is to head for Beaumaris in the Menai Straits, that’s if we can trust the weather forecast. It will be a last minute decision.

The Isle of Mann meanwhile, is a strange place. It’s early August and half the attractions aren’t even open or only open at the weekend. Douglas has a long, long beach with promenade that’s in good condition. The gardens and flower beds are all well tended, there’s no litter, no dog poo, but it’s empty and soul less.

We did find the Manx museum, which is very well laid out and charts the history of the Island over 10,000 years.

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Day 94. July 31st Maryport to Douglas.

Aug 2, 2022luffin23 Comments

What a night, we barely had any sleep! The light NW wind that was forecast had gone round to the North and was about a Force 4. We had lost the protection of the sandbank as the wind veered, the boat spent the night rocking, rolling and banging about, very unpleasant.

Not a great start, but the sunrise was good. We were soon under way running with the wind with just the genoa giving as a comfortable 6 knots. With the sail up, the boat motion was smoothed and as we took one hour turns at the helm, we were able to catch a bit of sleep in between watches.

The wind built to a steady F5 from the NW a bit earlier than expected, but still a nice sail. We rounded the Point of Ayre on the North of the island, keeping close in to avoid the turbulent waters further out. Crossing Ramsay Bay we put a reef into the genoa as the wind was now at 25-27 knots.

Passing Maughold Head the wind was now getting gusty, being affected by the hills. Regular gusts of 30-32 hit us so in went a large second reef. We were now whizzing along at 7-8 knots in moderate seas with a handkerchief for propulsion. Then it hit us, bang 45 knots sustained, a new record for my sailing experience and a scary one too! Sail down, I was fearful of the sail shedding or the rig breaking, so the last 10 miles were spent motoring,. Entering Douglas the outer harbour was too choppy to moor up, we were already tired and needed a good nights sleep, so we opted for the inner harbour where there was no wind at all. Downside, is we lost our gamble with the wind, but two out of three days is not bad. We’re now stuck here for a few days, but there are worst places to be holed up.

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Day 93 July 30th Campbeltown to Maryport.

Aug 1, 2022luffin24 Comments

An early start of 6am for a long passage of 63 miles. The day started wet as we motored out from the marina waving good morning to the chaps on the Border Control Vessel moored nearby. Out round Island Davaar with it’s lighthouse winking goodbye, we turned south and soon had the sails up with the wind on a close reach. As we made our way south the wind slowly backed, (it should have been veering) and after 20 miles we were heading, off course, toward Lock Ryan and Stranraer. Reluctantly we lowered the sails, the wind was dying anyway, and motored, now headed in the right direction. We passed a couple of pods of dolphins, which paid no interest in us and just passed by.

There were very few boats about other than when we passed Port Patrick, where we saw a yacht go in to Port Patrick and another passed us going the opposite way. The tide by now was against us in a big way, inevitable on a 12 hour journey. Passing Crammag Lighthouse the sea got rough, surprising as there had been no wind for the last 2 hours. We were being tossed around all over the place, and it got worse as we headed for the Mull of Galloway. Then the engine coughed, I knew what it was straight away, the rough conditions had stirred the tanks and the filter had water and muck in it. Cleaning the filter, brought back memories of my first hip dislocation which happened in similar conditions and doing the very same task. I was very careful!

Once done and the engine restarted, we continued on round into Luce Bay where there was a short patch of very fast flowing water, 5 knots against us, reminiscent of going round St Aldhelms point on a spring tide.

Then all of a sudden it was calm and protected from the Irish sea swell, we motored up to Maryport and anchored off the beach there in the lea of a sandbank.

We went to bed soon after supper, the boat rocking a bit from a slight swell. It had been a long day and would be another long one tomorrow.

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Day 92. Lochranza to Campbeltown.

Jul 29, 2022luffin21 Comment

It was a beautiful still morning as we left Lochranza, the water still and clear, it seemed a shame to spoil it with the ripples from our wake. We left early to miss the heavy winds that were forecast for later in the day. We motored for an hour or so and saw two pods of dolphins pass by.

Soon there was enough wind to sail, and the sea was still nice and flat. We made reasonable time and arrived at Campbeltown about 1:30pm.

I was expecting a small village but as the name suggests it is a full blown town. We were in need of Calor gas (again) and I found no fewer than 4 retailers within walking distance. Happy days!

A risky couple of days ahead as we head for the Isle of Man and then the Menai Straits. The weather is very complex over the week ahead with high winds from all directions interspersed with dead calms on an almost daily basis. We are hoping to thread our way through these weather systems, but if we get it wrong we may be stuck in one place for quite a while.

Wish us luck!

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Days 90 and 91. The Crinan and beyond.

Jul 29, 2022luffin2Leave a comment

Its said that the Crinan Canal can be transited in 6-7 hours, well that’s just pipe dreams as far as we can make out! Boat movements are supposed to start at 8:30am, however as you have to wait for the lockeeper on the first two locks, our actual start was 9:30am. Then the next 10 locks you operate yourself, which is a minimum 3 person job, a bit tricky with just two of us. Fortunately we paired up with a french family and pooled our resources. Having lived next to a canal as a child I was always “helping” the lockkeepers, so I had some basic knowledge of what we needed to do, and once we had got through the first lock it all became a lot easier.

By 3:30 pm, even with a stop for lunch we’d completed 10 of the 14 locks we had to get through, but with only an hour and a half before the canal was shut down for the night, we were advised that it would be best to stay where we were. There was a pontoon with water and electric, there were facilities, a hotel with restuarant and bar. What more could you want? After the exertions of the day, just an early night would do.

Next morning was cool to start but soon warmed up as we set off for the final 4 locks. We saw two boats moving onto the lock above us, so made off sharply so as to get in front, and just as well. The final four locks took an age, the last two taking an hour and a half. No explanation, no apologies from the lockeepers. Luckily it was warm and sunny and people were fairly relaxed.

Once through the sea lock, we turned south with the Isle of Arran dominating the horizon. Dropping in at Portavadie marina to refuel before heading for Broddick on Arran. At 4:30pm a strong headwind blew up and slowed our progress considerably, so we diverted to Lochranza where we anchored overnight. We even saw the Waverley passing us south round the north-east of Arran. (Long range photo)

Tomorrow we go to Campbeltown.

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Day 89. July 26th, Oban to Crinan.

Jul 28, 2022luffin2Leave a comment

We are booked to go into the Crinan Canal today and it’s an interesting route we have to follow to get there. There are several narrow channels between islands that have tricky tidal streams.

Our route took us down the Kerrera Sound, out round the Islands of Seil and Easdale, down through the sound of Luing between Fladda and Dubh Sgier, then past Lunga, Scarba and Jura. before turning east toward Crinan through a very dodgy patch of water, (we found out) called Domus Mor.

Although the day started a dead calm we expected and got a NW wind of about F4/5. by the time we reach the southern tip of Kerrera it was time to put the sails up. No major upsets this time, the wind was fairly constant and we slipped along at reasonable pace against or with various amounts of tide. LW was about 11am but the tidal streams were too complicated to comprehend. One minute we’d be flying along with a fair tide next struggling against foul, then suddenly going sideways at 4knots. Nobody told us of Dorus Mor, here we found two whirlpools. Just because the big daddy whirlpool is in Corry Vreckan, only 2 miles away, poor old Dorus Mor doesn’t get a mention. These ones still picked our 5 ton boat up, and threw it about, they ought to sell T-shirts, ” I’ve been through Dorus Mor”. We even had to resort to the engine, to get us out of that little cauldron, but then one or two minutes later we’re bowling along in dead flat water into Crinan Bay.

A frustrating wait outside the lock gate for an hour, before entering the tranquil Crinan Basin. and rafted next to another yacht Nautibouy.

Tomorrow we tackle the locks.

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Day 88 July 25th Stocking up.

Jul 27, 2022luffin2Leave a comment

Up early this morning and got all the bedding washed before breakfast. We also had time for a short walk up to the monument on the end of the Island. The wind was strong and from the NW, so a good day to not go sailing. We did still have to move from Kerrera to Oban North Pontoons and even that was quite choppy, but only half a mile across a sheltered bay, this was to facilitate getting supplies for the boat. Feeding four people instead of two soon runs down the larder and we also needed Calor gas.

Once the groceries and gas had been bought we then treated ourselves to chocolate drinks and cake in the Oban Chocolate Cafe before wandering up to Dunollie Castle which we arrived at, just as it closed. Where had the day gone, it was gone 4pm already! We strolled back to the marina in time to see a yacht that had left earlier being escorted back to harbour by the RNLI. The yacht had reported it was taking on water, (sinking) but must have been sorted on the way back as the boat wasn’t lifted out of the water.

No rain today, but it certainly was windy.

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Day 87 July 24th. Oban and a wet farewell

Jul 25, 2022Jul 26, 2022luffin21 Comment

It rained cats and dogs last night. Everywhere was wet or steamed up, but too warm to put heating on to dry things out. Russell & Nicola wanted to see Oban so we caught the first water taxi across. It’s a busy town, and a main transport hub for this part of Scotland. We visited the chocolate shop and cafe, Oban Museum, and several shops, usual touristy stuff. A nice pub lunch, then a walk up to the colosseum, no we’re not in Rome, but there is a colosseum overlooking the town, known as McCaigs Tower.

The structure was commissioned, by the wealthy, philanthropic banker, John Stuart McCaig to keep the local stone masons busy during the winter months. McCaig died before it was finished and it now stands as a public garden.

Back on the water taxi to the boat for Russell and Nicola to pack for their journey home and us to say goodbye 👋. Scotland also bade farewell in typical fashion by pouring with rain. They probably got wetter going from boat to the water taxi than they’d been all holiday.

We spent the rest of the day rearranging the boat back to two person living. ie. spreading out again.

Tomorrow we make the short trip to Oban North Pontoons to enable us to re stock the boat ready for the journey south.

Day 86 July 23rd. Kentallen to Oban.

Jul 24, 2022luffin2Leave a comment

We set off this morning on a sea like glass, heading South West down Loch Linnhe riding the last of the tidal stream. We were quite close in to shore by Rhubha Mor when we spotted a white tailed eagle, it was on the ground but being harassed by several Gulls. We came in closer to shore and managed to get some reasonable photo’s as it took off with it’s kill, evading the Gulls along the way.

Once that excitement was over, we continued on our way and rounding Shuna island, the wind kicked in quite suddenly. Very soon we were sailing along between 6 and 8 knots. The wind was very gusty and the many islands around were affecting the direction as well. As we continued the wind strength grew, The big screecher was quickly stowed as wind speed passed – 15 knots and the replacement genoa was soon reefed once then twice. as wind speeds of 20, 25 then 30knots appeared on the gauges. All this playing with the sails was quite an effort, taking it’s toll on my shoulders. Still it was a welcome sail after all the motoring in the canal.

Oban is a busy port and we were soon dodging passenger ferries as they sailed in and out of port.

There was a bit of a mix up at the marina as we had been allocated a very small (too small) berth but we found a suitable place for us and were told we where fine where we were. So much for booking and paying in advance!

We ate out at the Waypoint Restuarant in the evening. The last time we were here the food was excellent, however this time it was a bit of a disappointment. The food was OK, but the choice was very small. (2 options) Wouldn’t have been so bad, but later on the table next to us were offered a completly different menu including scallops, lobsters, and steaks!

A day in Oban tomorrow before bidding Russell and Nicola farewell on there journey back to warmer climes.

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Day 85, July 22nd Harry Potter and Neptune’s staircase

Jul 23, 2022luffin2Leave a comment

We were told the first lock in down Neptune’s staircase would be 8:30am so we were up and ready early. We radioed in early to register our intentions. The call came for all vessels wishing to lock down to make their way into the lock. We were off like a shot and it was a bit of a free for all, 7 boats in all left their berths and somehow we all got in, it was a tight squeeze!

Neptunes staircase is an 8 chamber lock where 1 lock leads directly to the next, with crews pulling the boats through by hand. It’s quite a sight to see and draws plenty of sightseers.

At the bottom of the staircase are two swing bridges one road and one rail. We were told we would have a slight delay as the Hogwarts Steam train came over the bridge. Nobody complained..

And just like that we are in salt water once more, and gently motoring down Loch Linnhe. We took a break for lunch, it had been a busy day so far, anchoring at “Three Mile Water”, then it was on to Kentallen, our stop for the night. We picked up a Hollytree Hotel mooring bouy and proceeded ashore for refreshments, The hotel had a jacuzzi, spa and swimming pool, all for £6.50. Lou and Nicky went fo a swim while Russell and I relaxed with drinks.

Back to the boat for our final on board evening meal, watching seals splashing about in the bay behind us.

The day closed in usual fashion with rain.

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Day 84 July 21st The frozen North !

Jul 22, 2022luffin2Leave a comment

The day started cool and misty. The temperature was only just in double figures. Lou and Nicky donned their Scottish summerwear and sat at the front giving their best impression of Brits on holiday. Off we set for the shortish trip to the head of Banavie Locks. The rain soon set in and everyone retreated to the cockpit. Louise as always, being positive said she could see blue sky, and sure enough as we reached Gairlochy lock, the rain stopped and the sun poked through the clouds. All of a sudden it was warm again. We’d tied up on a pontoon to wait for the lock to open, when a hire boat came in to berth behind us, probably the first attempt since hiring the boat as he hit the pontoon square on at a fair speed. It was quite a bang, and fortunately no one was hurt. The hire companies really don’t give enough training before letting people loose. We were soon through Gairlochy and arrived to find the pontoons at Banavie full with boats. We bagged one of the two remaining berths which coincidently had. a superb view of Ben Nevis.

After sandwiches for lunch, Lou and Nicky went off for supplies, nearest shop being about two miles away. The area around the locks is quite residential, and you would have thought a small convenience store would do well close to the passing trade of the boats, walkers, canoeists, cyclists along with the housing nearby, but no such luck, just a small furniture store with a closing down sale, a couple of craft and souvenir shops, a cafe and a builders merchants.

Tomorrow we go down Neptunes staircase, a set of 8 locks then on to the sea at Corpach.

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Day 83 July 20th Weather is back to normal.

Jul 21, 2022luffin2Leave a comment

A chilly morning after last night’s rain, the temperature had dropped to a cool 12 °C. After a lazy morning, treating ourselves to a cooked breakfast, it was a very short trip, only a couple of miles, to get to Laggan Locks. As we were now at the highest point in the lock system, this was the first time that Russell & Nicky experienced descending in the locks. We stopped for the day at the pontoons in the small bay to the North of Loch Lochy. We did a few chores around the boat and after Iunch we walked along The Great Glen Way. Up the North side to the Swing bridge we’d sailed past earlier, then across back along the wooded path on the southern side, then back to the boat.

At Laggan Locks there is a floating restuarant on a converted Dutch Barge. We enquired for a table, unfortunately it was fully booked for the evening but were serving bar meals so we decided to go for that. When we arrived it was immediately obvious why it was fully booked, there was only 3 tables giving just 10 covers and they only open 5:30pm to 8.00pm. The other half of the boat was a bar lounge with only 2 customers sitting on one of three large sofas at one end. It’s a great little place and I suppose they know their customer base better than we do but to only open for two and a half hours with only 3 tables seems daft. That’s typical of the Caledonian canal, at the stopping places, there’s few shops or restuarants, unless you are inclined to walk a few miles.

Traditional pub meals were eaten, and very nice too, but no pudding so we ordered 2 more meals and shared them! Back to the boat for a nightcap before our beds were calling.

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Day 82 July 19th Fort Augustus to Invergarry Castle.

Jul 20, 2022Jul 20, 2022luffin2Leave a comment

It was a warm night and a bit hard to get to sleep but the morning started cool. We were first boat in on the first lock going up but with shorter boats behind We weren’t pushed too far forward. Just as well as Lou & Nicky would have been taking an early shower.

Well five locks later, the sun was out and things were hotting up. We went up the canal through Kytra and Cullochy Locks then through a swing bridge into Lock Oich. Its a beautiful lock with lots of anchoring places but so short, many yachts just pass straight through without sampling the delights of its shores. We stopped at the one pontoon in the Loch.

There was time for reflection, reading, an afternoon nap, a cream tea at the hotel nearby, and a swim before dinner..

By five in the evening the rain had set in so we had a games evening playing “Bite your tongue” a vocabulary team game.

Tomorrow on to Laggan only 2 miles away.

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Day 81 18th July. It’s a hot one!

Jul 19, 2022luffin21 Comment

The day started with a flat calm after a very quiet night at anchor in Urquhart Bay. After breakfast we gently motored off past the beautiful Urquhart castle that even at 10 o’clock in the morning was teeming with visitors. Heading down the Loch towards Fort Augustus, we were in no hurry and there were very few boats about to disturb the view.

There were a few interruptions to the peace and quiet as a pair of jets screamed down the glen at low level.

We did spot someone, presumably a sponsored swimmer with a support boat making their way up the loch, rather bravely straight up the middle. I know you can drown in a puddle but this person had 700ft of water below them!

Just as we were thinking of stopping for lunch a bit of a breeze sprang up. A nice opportunity to sail in good conditions, so lunch was eaten on the move, as we raised the sails and turned the engine off. The wind was coming straight up the glen so it did involve a few tacks to get us to Fort Augustus. Well thirteen actually.

Such a difference to 5 weeks ago when we were bashing into 40 knot winds on a murky grey day.

Mooring up on an almost empty pontoon, we strolled into the village and found a small bar/restuarant “The Boat House” overlooking the end of Loch Ness and as mad dogs and englishmen in their various boats came past in the midday sun, we relaxed with a few drinks under the shade of a tree.

It was too hot to do anything energetic for the rest of the day so we relaxed at the boat, reading and chatting.

The pontoons had filled with boats during the course of the day. I’m guessing it’ll be a busy day in the locks tomorrow with no guarantee when we will be able to move on.

Day80, July 17th, Around the world in 80 days.

Jul 18, 2022Jul 18, 2022luffin21 Comment

Philias Fogg made a wager of £20000 to travel round the world in eighty days and of course he won his bet surmounting many challenges along the way. When we started this trip there was no such wager in place, but there was a target for the amount of money we might raise for our chosen charity, the Wessex Kidney Patients Association. We hope that by the end of the Journey in Sept that target of £1000.00 will be reached or even better surpassed. Please share this blog far and wide.

Nuff said. Today we were up early ready for todays trip into Loch Ness. We blagged our way into the first Loch up of the day which was not until nine thirty, with us were four Norwegian boats.

It was first time through the lock flight for all of them, so having done this once before we were the “experienced ones”. We were put in first, not the best position, as the front boat gets all the turbulence from the water gushing in and sure enough it wasn’t good, the boat was pushed around badly and the crew struggled to keep it under control.

There were a couple of large commercial tourist boats in the canal sections which were a bit of a squeeze to get past. Two more swing bridges and a lock later and we entered Loch Ness. The wind either goes up or down Loch Ness and today it was up, straight on the nose as usual, between 25-30 knots. Still, there was only 6 miles to go so we plodded on while the Norwegian boats set sail.

We anchored in 3.5 m of water close to a small wooden jetty, and over the course of the afternoon and evening the wind died to nothing.

It was a lovely quite warm evening as we watched the sun go down before bed. On to Fort Augustus tomorrow!

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Day 79 July 16th Into the Caledonian (again)

Jul 17, 2022Jul 18, 2022luffin2Leave a comment

The first time we entered this lock was 39 days ago, we were on our own and it was a cold murky day. We’re on the way again, weather forecast of F2-3 warm and a bit cloudy. A bit different this time, shorts and t-shirts, were enough and this time we shared the lock with 4 other boats.

With our guests Russell and Nicola as crew things were a lot easier to manage as I could stay at the helm while the others dealt with the ropes.. The short hop to the canal entrance took all of 15 mins and then we had to hold station for another 15 mins while the lock was made ready.

All 5 boats squeezed in, everyone seemed to be fairly adept at the boat handling which always puts you at ease, knowing that you’re not going to be bumped by another yacht. And up we went, 3 metres above sea level, and in fresh, not salt water. All the skippers went off to the office to pick up license’s and keys for the facilites. Then off to the next lock where everyone now was a expert so things went a little faster, and we were soon at Seaport marina where we refuelled and had a lunch break.

In the afternoon we walked into Inverness for coffee, sightseeing and a bit of shopping then later, after our evening meal, we walked back along the towpath for a group photo at the welcome stone next to the Sealock.

An early night tonight ready for the ascent to Loch Ness tomorrow

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Day 78, July 15th Guests arriving

Jul 16, 2022luffin21 Comment

Today we woke to a text message from Nicola and Russell saying they were in Glasgow and it was pouring with rain. We replied saying, welcome to Scotland! Fortunately by the time we met them at Inverness bus station the sun had come out and the day was warming up. A quick lunch was on the cards before grabbing a taxi back to the boat.

We have hardly spoken to anyone apart from each other for weeks, now there’s two pairs of willing ears and all of a sudden we have endless stories to tell. Tales of our journey spilling out one after another. We’ve been fine travelling just the two of us but we’d forgotton how enjoyable a good chinwag can be.

We are not locking in to the Caledonian until tomorrow, so had a lazy afternoon before dinner and in the evening a walk along the edge of the Firth. We spotted a large bird of prey, possibly a Golden Eagle which are reported in the area. If it was it would be quite a lucky sighting so near the town, unfortunately we didn’t have the telephoto with us and camera phone picture is inconclusive.

We are unable to go into the sealock until at least 11.30am because the lock doesn’t open 2 hours each side of Low Water Inverness. By the time we’re in and through the first couple of locks it’ll be a bit late to make it to Loch Ness.

The Caledonian can be hard work at times, lots of rope work, pulling the boat through the locks. We haven’t told them that yet but we’ll start off slow and build up. First stop is Seaport just two miles away, so an easy first day.

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