Day 64-65 Around the top.

The decision for the next two legs was pivotal on the accuracy of the weather forecast. Firstly the plan was to get to Scrabster in one jump, then through the Firth on Saturday, before bad weather hit on Sunday. The calm weather for the north of Scotland was holding and the strong winds decreasing when they arrived on Sunday, so we are making the decision to go.

I will admit to being apprehensive about this part of our journey. If you read the Reeds Almanac and take it’s highly condensed advice about the Pentland Firth, you probably wouldn’t go. It reads– Tidal streams between Pentland Skerries and Duncansby head reach 12 kts at Springs, the resultant dangerous seas should be avoided by yachts at all costs.

It is a notorious bit of sea and in the wrong conditions can be treacherous and advice on forums such as stay away from rocks, don’t go into the tidal rips, don’t sail within 2 days of a Spring tide are not terribly helpful.

Friday.

An early start of 0500, out of Kinlochbervie, and north to Cape Wrath, in time to catch the start of the east going tidal stream. It was a bit lumpy as we approached the Cape and a stream of 3 knots sped us around the corner, not another boat in sight. I would have liked to stop in Loch Eribol, as many of the people we’ve met along the way have expounded on its magnificence, but we had a schedule and a course to keep and sadly that’s one we had to miss. A straight line course all the way to Scrabster took us up to 5 miles from land and so for 7 hours our main entertainment was the wildlife.

We got into Scrabster around 1500 to be greeted by the Harbour Master who took our lines as we berthed. To be honest the facilities at Scrabster were barely better than Kinlochbervie but a helpful HM makes all the difference.

Saturday. Pentland Firth.

Most northerly point.

Having gleaned valuable information from the harbour master, an ex fisherman, about what time to leave and the safest course to take, we left Scrabster feeling a little more relaxed about what lay ahead. Another early start, we slipped out of the berth at 0615 our breath condensing in the cold morning air. Yes it’s July but I still had thermals and full wet weather gear on, it was raining as well. We headed out to Dunnet head where we reached our most northerly point of the journey, 485 miles from Swanage as the crow flies.

Then on into Pentland Firth, flat as a pancake, no tidal rips, no standing waves, nor whirlpools, in fact the fastest stream we had was 3kts off Dunnet head. All my angst was unfounded, the dragon slept today. As if to take the mickey, we even saw a kayaker crossing from the mainland to Ronaldsay.

We are now in Wick. We’ve made it safely round the top and we are heading south again.

Champange with dinner tonight!

The Wessex Kidney Patients Association is a charity that helps patients and their families deal with the upheaval caused by Kidney disease. If you enjoy reading our blog please consider giving to this cause . Many thanks Louise & Martin

Day 63 July 28 Loch Inver to Kinlochbervie

We left Loch Inver on a glass like sea, the mist in the mountains and their reflections on the water, quite special. We headed North past Stoer Point with its lighthouse on top and a little further on “The Old Man of Stoer” an impressive sea stack.

We then passed South of Handa Island, and the sea and sky filled with sea birds most of which nest on Handa, which is a nature reserve. There were Guillimots, Razorbills, Puffins, Shags, Fulmar and Skua.

Soon after, a pod of, we think, whales swam past, they were a little way off but the photos show tall dorsal fins.

Finally we reached Kinlochbervie, the west coast’s most Northerly port. A picturesque port despite it being a fishing Harbour. The Almanac telling us there are full facilities for the visiting yachtsman, pontoons with water and electric, toilets, showers, laundry, fuel, what more could you ask for. Well a harbourmaster would be good for a start. Grumpy Gary the locals call him, wasn’t in his office which I eventually found in the fish market, and he wasn’t answering his phones.

So the electric points had padlocks on, the water point was miles away, the shower was in the fish market with the ceiling caved in, with a large sign on the door saying it was forbidden to wash your dog in the shower. It didn’t look like anything had been washed in it for months. Next the Laundry – a broken tumble dryer and an even more broken washing machine held together with masking tape. The toilets were OK, they were built in 1961 according to the plaque. You remember the public toilets at the park, that’s what they were like.

Lastly where do you get fuel. Well in this case you go to the chandlery, which was closed. A passing stranger asked what I was after, and having told him, he went off to the fish market to get Pete! Pete dispensed me some diesel on the quay. How much? Oh go to the chandlers, which is suddenly now open, to pay. Then lugg 40 litres of fuel half a mile back to the boat.

Time then for dinner+ bed. 5am start tomorrow, Rounding Cape Wrath and across the top of Scotland to Scrabster

The Wessex Kidney Patients Association is a charity that helps patients and their families deal with the upheaval caused by Kidney disease. If you enjoy reading our blog please consider giving to this cause . Many thanks Louise & Martin