We were waiting the arrival of Adrian and Jayne as they travelled up from Coventry. A bright day with clear skys, sun, and best of all, it was warm. We did a bit of maintenance, including a filter change on the fuel system, and cleaning the brown scum line off the waterline. We cleaned the boat through, airing all the lockers, & we also had to rearrange the contents of the boat as over the last two months we had spread our stuff all over the place and now needed to make space for two more people and all their gear!
After some delays on the journey, which included an 80 mile detour for them, they arrived at about 16.45 and we soon had them settled in on the boat. It was great to just relax with a drink in the cockpit with friends. It had been a long day for them, so it was an early night for all after dinner had been eaten. It seems they have bought the sunshine with them.
The Wessex Kidney Patients Association is a charity that helps patients and their families deal with the upheaval caused by Kidney disease. If you enjoy reading our blog please consider giving to this cause . Many thanks Louise & Martin
We awoke this morning to fog. You are taught in your day skipper and yachtmaster courses not to set out in fog, fortunately by the time we were ready to leave the visibility was about 2 miles, so off we went on a dead flat sea with no wind. There were still patches of fog about but mostly just low cloud rolling off the hillsides. Three miles up the coast we had a milestone moment when we accumulated 1000 miles travelled so far.
Turning left out from Tobermory we crossed the Sound of Mull to its northern shore and followed the coastline round passing the point of Ardnamurchan. Although we may travel further west through the Isles this is also a milestone point on the trip being the most westerly point of the British mainland, which on a grey day such as this looked very bleak and barren. As we passed the fog came down with a vengence and visibility dropped to 200 metres. Fortunately it was only round the lighthouse and headland and soon could see land looming up in the distance.
Leaving TobermorySound of MullMuck with Rum behind.ArdnamurchanRumRum Anchorage
Muck, Eigg and Rum lay before us and at 10 miles range were all blurred into one. Muck was nearest a low lying Island which blends in with Eigg and the Towering mass of Rum behind it.
It wasn’t until we were nearly in Scresort Loch that the sun came out, and the southern edge of Skye, only a few miles away, became visible.
Once moored, We took a walk on the island famed for it’s Red deer, White tailed and Golden Eagles, none of which we saw.
At the head of the Loch lies Kinloch Castle, which is really a house built with a castle theme in the 1890’s by the owner of Rum at the time, George Bullough. The estate became largely neglected after the wall street crash sapped Georges money reserves and was sold some years later to the Nature Conservatory Council along with the whole island of Rum by George’s widow in 1957. It is now sadly run down and falling into a state of ruin.
Just 14 miles we’ll be there in under 3 hours, well that was the plan. The day started bright but around 10.00 when we were setting off dark clouds loomed and rain was falling at the far end of the Loch. As there was no great rush today, I suggested a slight delay while the rain passed over, haIf an hour later we set off. The sun was shining and as we slid out into the Sound of Mull a fresh Northwest wind sprang up giving us the chance to sail, and so we did until with a combination of tide, wind direction and by this time strength, we were crossing back and forth making no headway at all.
On went the engine and we motored doggedly toward Tobermory. Once again the weather goblins threw their full force against us and once again we were fighting against 30+ knots of wind.
Some hours later we eventually made it to Tobermorey, with a bonus of seeing a white tailed eagle being mobbed by several seagulls as it hunted along the edge of Calve Island,
When we woke the wind was still howling, it was peeing with rain and it was cold. Not the greatest incentive to go sailing. We had arranged to move the boat across the bay to the council run transit pontoons in order to pick up a calor gas refill. Looking at the various weather apps showed that the wind would calm down and the rain would stop by 1100 which was fortunate, as this fitted in nicely with our planned passage to Loch Aline to start at 1200.
The dogstoneLeaving Oban Bit of Blue Sky
Edging out into the Firth of Lorn, the sea had calmed and the wind died down to about 18kts, so up with the sails, and we were soon reaching toward Lismore point. The sun came out and all was well. Famous last words, The wind quickly veered and Lismore point could no longer be reached, so we tacked which upset a large ferry which then had to alter course to avoid us. Nothing dangerous or close but it did put a dent in his straight line course.
Lismore point marks the entrance to the Sound of Mull, and the tide rushes out of it at 3 kts or so, and just as we entered this turbulent piece of water the wind firstly died, then just as quickly hit us head on at 25kts. Oo er engine on and a quick furling of the jib and we were back in business. It was a narrow gap we were going through and it wasn’t worth taking any risks.
Unfortunately that was the sailing over for the day and the second half of the journey was motoring against the slowly strengthening wind.
Seabirds at Lismore Light houseLadys IslandDuart Castle
We arrived at the scenic Lock Aline and tried to dock at the pontoons, but a combination of tide and wind made it too difficult to do safely, and so we opted for a mooring bouy further down the Loch.
This wasn’t such a bad thing as the pontoons are close to a working sand mine, which at times is a bit noisy. This mine contains some of the purest silicon sand in the world and is used for making optical grade glass.
As the wind is a bit strong tomorrow we aim to stay two nights here and explore the area.
For no reason in particular, we decided to spend the day in Oban. Now while most of you are basking in the sunshine on the south coast, we are enjoying some dismal weather. We awoke once again to the patter of rain on the roof. Even the locals are getting disgruntled with how cold it is this year.
Oban marina is not actually in Oban, but half a mile away on the Island of Kerrera. To get to Oban you have to get a ferry, to get a ferry you have to book it online, to book online you have to buy credits and the man that is taking the booking is also the boatman and is sitting 50 yds away in his office and will only still only take the booking online. So we book to go at 10.00 and a return at 1600. All good so far. Now the ferry runs every two hours so when we get on we ask, “if we want to come back early can we just turn up at the jetty”. Ah well, he replies, If nobody has booked for the 1400 run then the 1400 run, won’t run. So if you go online, cancel the return, get your credits back, book a new time, then the ferry will run. .
Anyway ferry politics aside, once ashore in Oban, we found another castle to visit, more of a ruined tower really, but it had a small museum, some very nice gardens and a garden shed nobly named “the kettle “, where a staff of two were on hand to serve coffee and cakes.. Afterwards we returned to town to the whisky distillery which unfortunately was fully booked, (probably saved us a fortune). So we consoled ourselves mooching round the shops and had a hot chocolate and cake before catching the return taxiboat to the marina.
We ate out in the evening at the marina resturant which doesn’t have to be booked online and where during the day you can get coffee and cake which you pay for on a honesty box basis.
Two very different approaches to running a business!
As I sit writing this blog, the wind is howling, the rain is lashing the windows and the boat is being buffeted about, could be a disturbed night, luckily we can lay in, in the morning.
From our berth at the top of Banavie Locks Ben Nevis looms high beside us, I’d love to share a photo but the peak is obscured by cloud and at times you cannot see it at all because of the scotch mist. And this is the way it’s likely to be for several days yet.
We were expecting to move down the locks this morning, and were up at 7.00am all togged up and ready to go, only no lockeepers appeared. There is a shortage of lockeepers apparently, so those that there are have to travel from lock to lock. I hope they get some more before it gets busy in the summer.
Around 11.00am 2 keepers arrived at the bottom of the flight escorting 2 commercial boats and a yacht up the locks. A quick chat with them reveals that they will reach the top around 12.00 noon and then have an hours lunch break before getting yachts at the top, down the flight. It’s a bit of a marathon, 8 locks in one go, which takes about two hours, then there’s a bit of canal to go down, a double lock from which we watched “the hogwarts express” stream by, then finally the Sea Lock.
At 5.00pm we sailed out into Corpach Bay and the head of Loch Linnhe, we are in salt water once again, now on the West coast of Scotland. We sailed as far as Corran Narrows where we anchored in a bay at “An Camas Aisieg” (however you pronounce that)! A beautiful spot with waterfalls cascading down the mountainside and sheep roaming along the shoreline.
We woke this morning to a grey and cold day. We got up early to catch the early lock down & our up with the lark tactics paid off, as we slipped past the boats we had travelled with the day before, and off into Loch Locky. What would on a sunny day have been stunning views, was subdued by mist and low cloud.
The wind, although not too strong was on the nose as usual.
Salmon farmingLoch oichLoch Oich
At Gairlochy lock there was a bit of a wait before we were allowed into the lock, then a bit longer wait for another yacht to catch up and get into the lock. Then a third wait of about 15 mins while the swing bridge laboured it’s way open. Something is seriously wrong with the bridge it would seem.
Then with lightening winds and the sun trying to brighten things up, we motored up the last few miles of canal to Banavie. This is at the top of Neptunes staircase, a series of 8 locks which we will go down hopefully Tuesday morning.
There was a delay going up the Lock flight this morning due to a double load of boats coming down.
The form is, everyone gets told where in the lock you will be, everyone goes in ties up, then the gates close and the lock starts filling. Well, We’re still moving into the lock and the gates start closing, the boat in front is not far enough forward to give me room, Mr lockeepers doing his jeeves impression “A little reverse sir” Can he not see the lock gate trying to swipe the dinghy off the back?
Anyway I gave the hire boat in front a gentle nudge, (no damage although a bit embarrassing), but the gate missed the dinghy which was more important.
The next stage is everyone manually pulls the boats through to the next lock, which works quite well until the lead boat gets his fenders caught in the ladder and everything grinds to a halt. Nobody’s fault, just a bit embarrasing for whoever it happens to.
3rd 4th +5th locks by then were much quicker as everyone was in the groove by then.
Our convoy of five boats soon dropped to four as one stopped for a break at the top of the flight, and the rest of us continued on to the next lock about a mile away.
The whole of the Caledonian works on the same radio Channel, 74. This works quite well for the lockeepers, who can hear what boats are where and when to expect them. Most of the time! Unfortunately half of the boats haven’t got any local knowledge, radio training, or awareness of where they are. But who can blame them, there’s far to many lochs and locks. For example on our journey today was from Fort Augustus throgh kytra lock, cullochy lock, Loch Oich, through laggan lock, into Ceann Loch then Loch lochy and on to gairlochy top lock then Gairloch swing bridge. If that’s not bad enough when two boats approaching the same lock from different directions both call up a different lock, it’s just total confusion.
Loch OichCanalweirHotel viewberthrainbows end
Anyhow, having traversed Cullochy lock and swing bridge we were now at our highest level above the sea in loch Oich. 106 ft. or 32 metres. About halfway along Loch Oich is Invergarry castle and Invergarry castle hotel, It has a landing pontoon which we decided was the best place to stop for the night.
We walked to the hotel through lovely forest paths and had a cream tea in style in the hotel lounge watching deer running on the hillside on the opposite side of the Loch
We’d anchored overnight in Urquhart Bay, and as a belt and braces measure, I downloaded an anchor watch app to my phone and tablet. I was pretty sure we weren’t going to drag but there were some big winds forecast overnight.
Thankfully no alarms went off, we didn’t move and we both slept soundly. In the morning we reviewed the weather and decided to leave early for Fort Augustus about 12 miles South West of us. That decision turned out to be a bit of a mistake! As we came out of the lee of Urquhart Point, there was an 18 knot wind on the nose and a small choppy sea, The speed went down to 5 knots increasing our passage time to about 2 and a half hours, more or less what we expected, so no problem. Well five hours later we arrived at our destination having experienced steadily increasing winds, a nasty 40 knots for most of the last hour. Out to sea such winds would have kicked up very big waves, fortunately in the confines of the loch just a moderate choppy sea. Oh and did I say it was raining for much of the time, so visibility wasn’t great either.
Ten miles to goNearly thereRainLooking BackFort AugustusFort Augustus Lock flight.
On the bright side, we’d still arrived in time for lunch.
We also have an explanation for the depth soundings. Our depth gauge for some reason starts again at 200 meters, so if it’s 207 meters deep It will say 7 meters. Bit odd but there it is, not the thermocline, not Nessie, just odd electronics.
Last night I had gone to bed early, as I had not slept well the previous night and was dog tired. I went out like a light, only to be woken by Louise telling me there was a lifeboat alongside. WHAT! Blurry eyed I poked my head up through the hatch, were we drifting, sinking, in a dangerous place? Evening gents said I, anything wrong? To 4 blokes in yellow drysuits and crash helmets. No one replied, just admiring your boat. Oh right O, I’ll go back to bed then, I said, to muttered apologies for the disturbance.
The day broke sunny and calm, but with a forecast of showers later in the day. We had booked tickets to go to Urquhart Castle at 9-30. As we were arriving by dinghy, we were met by one of the castle stewards. As we chatted, we asked about the depths we’d experienced the day before and he said there were no under water undulations and couldn’t explain it.
We spent about 2 hours touring the castle and had a cake and coffee before heading back to the dinghy, where we were met by another steward who asked about our “unexplained anomaly” clearly our story had got about the staff. This chap seemed to know his Nessie stuff and suggested we should go to the Loch Ness exhibition centre to talk to Adrian Shine, (probably the worlds authority on Nessie). This seemed a bit extreme but having come all this way it did seem a good idea to at least visit the Exhibition which we did. A very good and thought provoking place, most of which debunks the idea of a real Nessie, and reveals the deliberate hoaxes, and explains at least some of the misinterpreted photo’s that have appeared over the years. Adrian had gone home, so we didn’t manage to talk to him.
We found out that other boats have had similar experiences and although there is nothing proven it could be an effect caused by the thermocline (a layer in the water that separate warm and cold water) deceiving the depth sounder. We’ll stick with Nessie, it’s more fun.
We started the day with a delay. Having been to fill up on fuel first thing, we went to the transit pontoon to await the opening of the swing bridge and our first locking of the day. Only when we called in, they were ushering several boats through the sea lock behind us, one of which was joining us going through the Muirtown flight.
There was a delay of about an hour, so we didn’t get started till about 10:30. With just two boats going through it was a fairly quick job and we were soon off down the canal at the statutory 4 knots, where I got a cracking photo of a heron on the bank as we went past.
A couple more swing bridges and a final lock before the canal gives way to Loch Dochfour. This is less than a mile long and goes narrow and shallow before opening out into… Loch Ness and what a sight that is! Long and straight bounded on each side by forests and mountains.
We could have sailed but we just wanted to soak up the scenery and so motored.
We happened to be monitoring the the depth as this is the deepest water Watanga has sailed in. At 182m the depth gauge sudden started flashing and showed rapidly shallowing water, within seconds it was at just 4.9 metres!
We quickly turned toward the centre of the Loch, even though we were a quarter mile from the bank. I checked the charts, it should be around 18O metres, a flat muddy bottom, 1000 ‘s of years of sediment. The gauge settled again at 182 metres so we resumed our course. Almost immediately the bottom apparently reared up again, this time to about 7metres. Was the depth guage on the blink or was it Nessie? After about 5 minutes everything settled again and we continued on to Urquhart bay where we anchored in the shadow of Urquhart castle to spend the night.
We had sailed for 5 days in a row, so decided to take a rest day on Monday. Just a leisurely day with lunch out and a walk on the beach & do a few jobs on the boat including topping up on fuel and water.
Unfortunately Monday night was a bit disturbed as the constant East wind had built up a swell that permeated it’s way into the marina. This meant the boat was lurching around snatching at the mooring lines, with lots of creaking and bumping noises and we had only a few hours sleep.
Still it wasn’t an early start on Tuesday and we eventually set off about 930, our destination Inverness. The swell was about 2 metres which made the boat roll uncomfortably but a steady F4 easterly wind pushed us along, with a tickle of help from the engine to get us to Chanonry Narrows by about 1530 just after the flood tide starts.
Now Chanonry Narrows is the only place in Britain you are virtually guaranteed to see dolphins and we were all psyched up to see them. Loads of people on the shoreline with big telephoto lenses…..NO DOLPHINS, gutted.
Well with only a hour left to run we took pictures of the countryside instead, berthing in Inverness Marina at 1630.
I was a bit nervous about going to Lossiemouth for a number of reasons. Firstly was we couldn’t contact them to ask about availability, (they don’t work weekends), and the almanac specifically says catamarans should phone ahead. Secondly the weather was due to build in the afternoon from the east and there are warnings against entering Lossiemouth in strong east winds. Thirdly there wasn’t an alternative plan that didn’t involve 4 more hours at sea.
A chat with Bertie the harbourmaster at Whitehills, allayed most of my worries, quote, “aye, tell them Bertie said it was ok”, plus I found a webcam showing a number of empty berths. So off we went.
There were no major hazards to watch for and the sun was shining and after an hour enough wind to hoist a sail.
We went past Logie Head, then the town of Cullen, home of cullen skink which sounds like a smelly animal, but is actually a delicious hearty fish soup dish made with smoked haddock and mashed potatoes. Then onwards past some fantastic rock formations, one called “Bow Fiddle Rock” see photo, “Durdle Door” eat your heart out
Logie HeadCullenBow Fiddle Rock
As we entered Spey Bay the exiciment began. I was watching the seabirds congregating as they do when there’s food scraps, when I saw a splash, grabbing the binoculars I could see dolphins. These are the first we’ve come across in 800 miles of sailing, and what’s more they came to play around the boat, staying with us for about 15 minutes. I’m not sure what kind they were, but they were big.
Spey Bay is about 10 miles of glorious golden beach and we could see our destination at the end of it for what seemed like hours. About a mile out from Lossiemouth and directly in front of us was another conglomeration of seagulls. As we passed them there was a huge surge of water as a whale, from the fin shape probably a minke of which there have been several sightings in the area, surged though the flock of birds scattering them in all directions. This was no more than 30 meters from the boat. My only regret was I didn’t have the camera to hand.
Soon after we were on final approach to the harbour, and before long we were nosing into the marina. We found a berth without problem and were soon moored up.
We quickly tidied up and went exploring and found a street party which we joined for an hour before wandering up to look at the beach then to the shops for a few provisions. Back to the boat and Gin and Tonic in the conservatory before dinner.
With five straight days sailing every day we’ve gone from being behind schedule, to a little ahead, tomorrow’s a rest day.
A bit of a lay in this morning, but still up at 0600 ready to leave before we sank into the mud, (we had a very shallow berth.) To visit Edinburgh is a long way off the quick route up the east coast and many miss out the Firth of Forth completely. We would have preferred to spend more days here but we must make use of the good weather. Or so we thought! Today we paid the price as the wind conspired against us all the way. Timing its direction exactly to our route until we turned north at Tully bothy Rocks when it died altogether and the tide then took its turn.
One of many small harbourslighthouse castleboy these things are bigA running startthen jump and we’re off!!
Still it was a lovely sunny day and there was much bird life to watch as well as the passing scenery. We took it in turns I hour apiece to hand steer and arrived about an hour later than we’d planned. Arbroath is lovely little harbour, the only trouble is we are locked in. I hadn’t realised that the lock wouldn’t open till the afternoon tide, too late for a journey to Peterhead.
So we plan to go to Stonehaven, a small harbour half way to Peterhead and continue our journey on Friday.
Up at the crack of dawn again, for a 50 odd mile motor up to Edinburgh. The day started overcast and no wind, pretty much as expected, however, despite the lack of wind there was still quite a swell. We made for deeper water which helped somewhat but the waves were still 2 metres in height, but fortunately not breaking.
It soon started to rain, but we were well protected by our canopy, although it was cold.
Looking at the Lat – long figures on the chart plotter, suddenly made me realize, that as the crow flies, we were 300 miles dead North of Swanage!
Courtesy FlagSt Abbs
6 miles out from Berwick and we crossed into Scottish waters, so up went the courtesy flag.
By the time we reached Dunbar the sea had flattened, the rain had stopped, and we could see a bit more of the beautiful coastline as it slipped by. That was also about the time the autopilot stopped working, so its hand steering for a bit until we can get it fixed.
The Firth of Forth is a mass of birdlife with Skua’s, Guillemots and Puffins all around. Bass Rock was totally covered in Gannets.
PuffinsGannets on Bass Rock
By the time we got to Glenton Marina the sea was absolutely flat, an eight and a half hour journey, just a shame there was no sailing.
Tuesday we plan to visit Edinburgh, with of course the castle high on the priority list.
We were going to leave Berwick this morning at some unearthly time of morning and set out for Edinburgh. I started my passage plan with a good look at the weather, it showed that the wind for the first few hours would be similar to yesterday, not good. Then I noticed the sea state would be twice as bad as yesterday, really not good, so as we were already both very tired from Saturdays passage we made the decision not to go.
A good decision as we would have missed the delights of Berwick. We spent all day exploring the massive walls of the city, the museums, the pier, the three bridges, the many coffee shops and bars. There is so much history wrapped up in this place.
Looking out to sea you would think I had been too cautious, but then look at the surf coming in and you can see it’s just an illusion. It really was quite lumpy out there.
Perfect day?Look a little closerSwans preening themselvesWatanga from the RampartsThe Old BridgeThomas Telford’s railway viaduct.
Yesterday as we sat, 35 knots of wind screeching in the rigging of the yachts, all jostling in their berths, like impatient thoroughbreds waiting for the start of a race. We hatched a plan to leave Amble, there was a small break in the weather, although it was a northerly headwind which meant short tacking up the coast.
Leaving Amble early morningLeaving Amble
The day started well, a light breeze from the NW, happy days, less tacking we thought. I’d shaken the reef out of the main sail, we were gliding along at 6knots, when there was a creaking from the winch as rope tensions tightened. What’s that? says Louise, that’s 30 knots of wind says I. Even Watanga can heel over when she’s that overpowered!
Over the course of the next half hour the seas grew lumpy and we started a long slog up to Lindisfarne in not desparate, but definitely uncomfortable conditions. The upside of the twenty or so tacks we had to make was it kept us warm on what was a sunny but cold day. On the way we passed Bamburgh Castle and the beach we had walked along a couple of days ago.
Bamburgh CastleBamburgh Castle
It certainly looks impressive from the sea.
We anchored at Lindisfarne in “The Heugh” for Lunch.
LindisfarneThe Priory LindisfarneSeals
Sadly we didnt have time to go ashore, but took loads of pictures. Plenty of seals here.
Then the second leg of the passage to Berwick on Tweed. We motored this part as time was pressing to pass over the sand bar at the entrance.
Three Bridges.On the Old BridgeWatanga at Berwick
The Harbourmaster was very welcoming, the pontoon only has enough room for 3 Boats and one of them is a lifeboat.
The next three stops on our itinery are Lindisfarne, Eyemouth and then Glenton (Edinburgh). We gleaned some local knowledge that Lindisfarne was a safe anchorage in any winds, however, we did not wish to sit on anchor for 3 days whilst the high winds blew through. We were all set to move on come Saturday to Lindisfarne then Eyemouth on Sunday, but the forecast is now changed and Eyemouth will be untenable for a few days as the wind has turned Northerly. So new plans may have to be made and Eyemouth at least left out. Much can change in a few days, so for now, better to be safe in a Marina with some public transport links, and many places to explore.
Todays excursion was to Bamburgh Castle.
There has been some sort of fortification at Bamburgh for over 3000 years and being so close to the Scottish Border, has alway been a strategic military site. Today the castle is owned by the Armstrong family, who have restored the castle after being left in ruins several times over the centuries.
After the castle we walked along the long white sandy beach searching for ‘treasures” One oddity we came across at the end of the beach were tadpoles in the rockpools. I’m assuming that these were above the high tide mark and were fresh water pools, or do you get salt water frogs?
On returning to Bamburgh Village we visited the RNLI “Grace Darling” museum. A story of great bravery that won Grace and her father Silver Medals for Bravery by the Royal National Institution for the Preservation of Life from Shipwreck, now the RNLI.
We had travelled to Bamburgh by Billy Bus, a 50 mile round trip for only £6.70 each, you pay almost that much to travel 300 yards on the Studland Ferry!
By now you will have noticed that we like to visit old castles and today was no exception. We’re still in Amble and just a mile down the road is Warkworth Castle. So of we went this morning, a pleasant walk along beside the river Coquet. A couple of hours learning about the history of Warkworth Castle and the Percy family that owned it between the 14th to 17th century. For a ruin, it is remarkably intact.
From the RiverThe Motte Front doorThe Lion, The Percy family emblem9Warkworth castleBit Wet
Just as we finished at the castle and were exploring the village the rain started. The first of many heavy showers today then a short thunder storm this evening.
Theres some strongish winds coming over the next few days so we are staying put here for a while. Tomorrow we visit Bamburgh Castle just north of here.
A quick turnaround at North Shields, we were up early to get to Amble with enough water to get over the cill. This once again meant pushing against the flow of the tide and today the was no wind so it was motor all the way. Up past Whitley Bay, the very industrial Blyth and then the more scenic views of Druridge Bay before finally going round the bird sanctuary island of Coquet and on to the entrance of the river Coquet and on to Amble Marina.
Leaving the TyneBlythConquet IslandCoquet river EntranceLooking backWarkworth Castle
A very warm welcome here with someone to take your lines. It is a very tight berth to get into especially when you’re been told to say “as close as humanly possible” to the hammerhead. Bit dramatic but as it happened was easy to do. We were given the impression that we were going to get very tightly packed with boats so before we did anything else we turned the boat round to face the exit. This we did with long ropes and a bit of muscle.
In the afternoon we wandered into town and found a hardware shop, and got some hinges for the loo. (now fully mended).
Then time for showers Now Royal Quays Marina in North Shields boast the best showers on the North East Coast, (I’m guessing this comes after being awarded best marina 2019 by someone). However they are mistaken as Amble marina’s showers are better.
One can rate showers in many ways Power, heat control, size of cubicle to start. but privacy, separate wet and dry areas, hooks, a shelf for shower gels, all play a part. Big downers for me are, plastic shower curtains and timer buttons.
There also seems to be a common reasoning amongst marina shower block designer’s that thinks putting a 20cm panel at right to the wall will stop your clothes from getting wet. Do these guys actually take showers?
The most bizarre setup was in Scarborough that placed the toilet in front of the shower, no curtain, you could literally take a shower while sitting on the loo.
It was a shame to have to leave Whitby after only one day but we needed to get on. Possible bad weather in the latter part of next week could hold us up so we’ve got to get the miles in. Today’s journey was to North Shields on the Tyne river, it was literally one straight line from the pier head to pier head, so not much navigating to do. However lots of commercial shipping in and out of Hartlepool and variable wind strengths and directions stopped the boredom setting in over the eight hour passage. There were times when we were motoring in no wind and times when we were zipping along at 9 kts with 2 reefs in! During the trip We also passed our 500 mile mark.
Leaving WhitbyBreakwater and Abbey North Pier Head.
On arrival at the marina we refueled before locking in, ready for our passage up to Amble tomorrow, where we hope to pick up some local knowledge for the next hundred miles of travel from the reportedly very friendly and knowledgeable marina staff.
We have been it touch with John Gilmour, whom many of you will know, from the sailing club, his teaching at the local school and his volunteering at Swanage Lifeboat. We were hoping to meet up somewhere on our journey, but our itineries have not quite coincided. Such a shame after travelling this far.
Our schedule puts us in Edinburgh next Saturday, one hundred miles away. but with Amble, Lindisfarne and Eyemouth to visit on the way it’s going to be a busy week.
We had a rest day in Scarborough so had our first breakfast off the boat, a full monty, we didn’t have to eat anything else all day. We strolled around the town for a bit, doing some window shopping. Scarborough is a traditional seaside town with its own Ferris Wheel. There are five types of shop along the seafront, fish & chips, Ice cream, amusement arcades, cafes and pubs, but go back from the seafront and up the hill is a huge pedestrianised shopping centre selling everything from stuffed birds to wedding dresses, but sadly nowhere can you get a set of hinges for a loo seat. Guess what we need?
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Saturday and we’re off to Whitby. It is a relatively short hop of 20 miles or so, but a frantic dash to get out of Scarbo’ as soon as the tide is high enough to leave and get to Whitby before it runs out again. It means keeping up a good average speed all the way, but not too hard to achieve.
It was a bright, clear day and we set off at 0615, far too early to be awake but there it is. Time and tide wait for no man. There was soon enough wind to help us on our way but we still had to motor-sail to keep the average speed up.
The coast line was stunning with dramatic Jurassic Cliffs much like those in Dorset. Passing headlands such as Hayburn Wyke, Blea Wyke point, Beast Cliff, and Whitby High. before spotting the ruins of Whitby Abbey on the headland and then the breakwaters at the entrance to the River Esk.
On entry everything went calm, w called up the bridge master and were told to hold station for ten minutes until the next opening. “Wait there mate” the official parlance in these parts. Once the bridge was open and we slipped through, a couple of things went wrong. First I missed the chap waving at me and telling me where to go and went down the wrong set of Pontoons. Then a James Martin lookalike was shouting do you know there’s a trawler behind you. ” You hum it, I’ll sing it, I thought. but sure enough there was a big fishing boat looming up behind as I was turning round…. in his way! Oops. Overtaking boat should keep clear eh!
Well we got to the berth eventually. Two guys there to take our ropes, all very friendly and it was only 10.00am.
So much to do today. First up to the Abbey and do the tourist thing..doing the 199 steps mentioned in Bram Stoker’s ‘Dracula’, round the Abbey, back down 199 steps, and into town. Fish and chips from the recommended Magpie cafe. Some shopping, then back to Watanga to decide where our next port of call was to be.
There’s some marginally bad weather coming which may prevent us visiting Lindesfarne Holy Island, which would be a great shame. but we must keep plugging North.
We awoke bright and early for our trip to Scarborough, also up were David and Rosie on Ventus doing the same passage. We locked out at 6.45 am into a very busy Humber Estuary. The tides are strong and we made slow progress toward the commercial traffic lanes near Spurn Head with Humber Port Control advising us on our progress.
An opportunity to cross the traffic lanes came just as we reached Spurn Head, Port Control confirmed and at last we could turn towards the North, it had taken 2 hours to get going in the right direction!
Grimsby Fish Dock‘ Bull sand fort’“Traffic”
Things picked up, the tide was now with us , and progress was swift. Then as we passed Westermost Rough Wind farm we found enough wind to sail, and so we did up until Flamborough Head where the wind died and the wildlife began. Hundreds of birds, Gannets, and Guillemots mainly going to and from the Cliffs at Monkton.
We were nearly at Filey Brigg when a Pan Pan came over the radio, it was “Ventus” who were becalmed with engine failure. We turned round then plotted a course to their position, but they were over an hour away and already a nearer boat was going to assist.
So back to our passage, sorry that we hadn’t been able to help but glad to know they were alright. They had been towed to Bridlington.
The last three hours to Scarborough were a struggle against fast flowing tides.
Filey Brigg Approaching ScarboroughA double helping of Gemini
A funny conversation over the radio with the Harbour Master, I told him we were a 10.5 metre catamaran and he must have thought that was my width (beam), and asked about 4 times what my length was, it was always the same answer, we got there in the end!!
Berthing was straightforward. Help from Jonathan on yacht ‘Bubble’ as we slipped in.
We are berthed just down from another Gemini 105mc, but haven’t seen the owner yet.
After dinner we were invited aboard “Christine” and spent the evening with Tony the owner/skipper and Martin who it turned out is the Commodore of Ramsgate Royal Yacht club. “Fair winds” fella’s.
We woke to a bright sunny day, and as the tide and destination very much dictates the departure time. All five boats on the pontoon were ready to go at the same time and I was volunteered for the job of leadlng us out, and so a flotilla set sail.
Now I had worked out that the passage time was 8 hrs but it was 9.5hrs until we could get through the lock at Grimsby. So there was no point in rushing. I set the speed at 5kts and put it on autopilot.
jeepsterHigh rise Beach huts Say goodbye to the horse
Not so the other boats who whizzed off at top speed in various directions. Soon there were no boats other than “Jeepster”a local boat who crossed our path a couple of times. In the end only “VENTUS” and ourselves arrived at Grimsby. The other three clearly gave us some misinformation, “See you in Grimsby” they’d said, but the A.I.S. on their boats give them away, they had all gone to Spurn Head, Maybe to ensure a shorter passage to Scarborough? I don’t envy them on anchor at Spurn Head in a F5/8 Southerly wind. I do hope they are alright though.
After a drink in the very friendly Humber Cruising Associations Clubhouse, we had supper and then to bed, A nice quiet night despite the wind.
The Wessex Kidney Patients Association is a charity that helps patients and their families deal with the upheaval caused by Kidney disease. If you enjoy reading our blog please consider giving to this cause . Many thanks Louise & Martin
So after a damp entry to Wells last night, did I say it was raining? Well it was, and by the time we had berthed we were wet and cold. Fast forward 12 hours.
Today we woke to bright sunshine and a promise of a warm day. First thing was to find Calor Gas again, We now know a 6kg bottle lasts approx 12 days.
Transport to some local attractions was none existant if you don’t have a car, so we opted for a wander around town, nosing around the various curiosity shops. Coffee at a place advertising “The best sausage rolls ever” Well you have to try one, don’t you. Delicious but misnamed – possibly the most expensive
As low tide approached we walked down the coast path beside the channel to the lifeboat station to see the sea. Only, it wasn’t there…..
We’d sailed in over that 18 hours earlier.
We also discovered a bit more about the other yachts we’d sailed into Wells with. Three of the others are also on their way around Britain. . One is going to Scotland and the other to Grimsby, everyones next stop. It’s a flotilla.
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As you can see we also found a horse sculpture, a rest home for old lifeboats and plenty of birds on the Salt marshes.
The Wessex Kidney Patients Association is a charity that helps patients and their families deal with the upheaval caused by Kidney disease. If you enjoy reading our blog please consider giving to this cause . Many thanks Louise & Martin
The Almanack states entry to Wells next the sea is fraught with danger, needs detailed local knowledge and shouldn’t be attempted in strong winds. Well, looking at the Wells Harbour website, its a piece of cake, provided you a come at the right time, call to ask permission, and can read a compass. . I was happy with the navigation, but there was a nagging doubt about the sea state with the expected weather. A call to the Harbourmaster, revealed that a Force 5 easterly “would make entry exciting ” I was relieved to find a chap on the same pontoon as us was going to Wells the same day as . us, and was a Wells Lifeboatman. His opinion, no problem.
So off we set along with 4 other boats all bound for Wells. Sailing 2/3rds of the way then motoring when the wind died. Everyone lined up and filed in to the entrance following a lifeboatman on his yacht.
The Wessex Kidney Patients Association is a charity that helps patients and their families deal with the upheaval caused by Kidney disease. If you enjoy reading our blog please consider giving to this cause . Many thanks Louise & Martin
A pleasant leisurely day spent with our friends. Strolling the promenade, icecream, donuts and coffees on the pier. Then a nice meal in the evening at JoJo’s
Maybe Wells next the Sea tomorrow, maybe not, the wind is getting stronger at every update. hmm..
The Wessex Kidney Patients Association is a charity that helps patients and their families deal with the upheaval caused by Kidney disease. If you enjoy reading our blog please consider giving to this cause . Many thanks Louise & Martin
Now you lot, you haven’t been paying attention! Nobody picked upon the fact I’d missed out a day. I’d actually written the post, but forgotten to publish it. So here it is.
Today marked one mile stone today. At around 3:30 this afternoon we reached the most eastern extremity of our journey. 1° 47m 07 E. as we skirted the Lowestoft Bank on our approach to Lowestoft Harbour.
We had retraced our steps and as we emerged through the sandbanks of the Deben Estuary, headed East and North. past miles of empty shingle beaches to round Orford ness, an area once used for top secret military experiments including the atomic bomb. Now home to seals scattered along its shoreline. Later we passed the sizewell power stations before arriving at Lowestoft.
The Wessex Kidney Patients Association is a charity that helps patients and their families deal with the upheaval caused by Kidney disease. If you enjoy reading our blog please consider giving to this cause . Many thanks Louise & Martin
Well to be truthful we weren’t going anywhere anyway, but were suprised to find a massive dredger jammed into the marina entrance, only yards from our berth. No one had mentioned this to any of the berth holders or visitors. So as you can imagine a few feathers were getting very ruffled, as passage plans were ripped up and thrown in the bin and the marina manager put his humble pie in the oven and cotton wool in his ears.
This was only 10 yards from WatangaNo Exit!
Today was put aside for the more mundane matters of house keeping. First a visit from a Raymarine Electronics man, who sadly was unable to fix the chartplotter problem. Then a couple of wash loads of laundery. Top up water tanks, clean boat, that sort of thing. Some food shopping, lunch. Then a stroll up the promenade. Serious promenade here at Lowestoft, it goes for miles.
We are meeting some friends tomorrow who are taking a mini- break in Lowestoft, so we will be here tomorrow as well. Sunday is planned for our next move to Wells next the Sea, however weather is borderline for entry, and there are no viable alternatives nearby. Passage may be delayed until Monday or Tuesday
The Wessex Kidney Patients Association is a charity that helps patients and their families deal with the upheaval caused by Kidney disease. If you enjoy reading our blog please consider giving to this cause . Many thanks Louise & Martin
When I chose Ramsholt as a place to stop, it looked ideal. But as it happens the pub only opens at dinnertime. It’s a mile walk to the nearest road, theres no public transport and the place we want to go to is 7 miles away.
So we opt for a taxi, and after chatting with the driver on the way, he kindly gave us a donation for the WKPA. Good man!
And where were we going? Well if you have seen “The Dig” you may have heard of the Saxon Ship burial site at Sutton Hoo. The site is run by National Trust and if you are ever in the area is well worth a visit. We spent the afternoon there and at around 4 o clock called for a cab. The earliest available was 5:30pm. Sutton Hoo closes at 5.00pm and by now its raining. At this point the staff at Sutton Hoo go above and beyond and let us stay in the restuarant while they clear up and we wait for the taxi, even throwing in free coffees.
Whilst we wait, we chat to a couple in a similar position who have been left behind by their coach tour operators. They seemed quite happy to have missed the next part of the tour which was a river trip (in the rain). We gave them one of our cards, you never know we might get another donation!
Getting back to the boat wasn’t without its drama. The tide had gone out, the mud was about a foot deep and then the flipping outboard wouldn’t start. Argh!!! Two mudlarks in a dinghy desparately rowing against tide and wind, we just started laughing.
On the bright side, after getting to the boat and washing ourselves down, the heavens opened for about an hour (any earlier and we would have been drenched) When the rain stopped we were treated to a lovely rainbow and a beautiful sunset.
The Wessex Kidney Patients Association is a charity that helps patients and their families deal with the upheaval caused by Kidney disease. If you enjoy reading our blog please consider giving to this cause . Many thanks Louise & Martin
Sunday morning bright and. sunny, a brisk NE wind rattling the halyards. I must admit I was nervous about the next leg of the journey. Forecast was F4 all day but the direction meant a fair swell and waves would be making the journey uncomfortable. Then there’s all those sandbanks to worry about, I’m not making this sound glamorous am I!
We took a peek over the harbour wall, and it didn’t look bad, so decision made, off we set. We had a number of bailout options if we needed them.
We could see only one boat, about 2 miles away, and another following us, “Razzamataz”. So here we are the only two boats for 2 miles, he draws up 20 metres off the port side and signals he wants to turn to starboard. REALLY!!! We’ll I’d seen him dock the day before and it was the worst I’ve seen, so I wasn’t going to have him make a rash manoeuvre in my direction. I stopped and let him go round the front of me, what an idiot.
Apart from that it turned out to be quite an uneventful journey, and we arrived in Brightlingsea at 4.35pm.
We passed 3 windfarms today and were in the lee of all off them at some point. It was quite noticable how the wind speed dropped behind all of them up to 50% at times. I was glad I wasn’t tempted to shake our one reef out of the main during the lulls.
Trip 44 miles. Total so far 221 miles.
Good news, We found a bottle of Calor Gas. Hoorah!
The Wessex Kidney Patients Association is a charity that helps patients and their families deal with the upheaval caused by Kidney disease. If you enjoy reading our blog please consider giving to this cause . Many thanks Louise & Martin
4 Kidneys and a Wonky Leg 