#Whales

Day 63 July 28 Loch Inver to Kinlochbervie

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We left Loch Inver on a glass like sea, the mist in the mountains and their reflections on the water, quite special. We headed North past Stoer Point with its lighthouse on top and a little further on “The Old Man of Stoer” an impressive sea stack.

We then passed South of Handa Island, and the sea and sky filled with sea birds most of which nest on Handa, which is a nature reserve. There were Guillimots, Razorbills, Puffins, Shags, Fulmar and Skua.

Soon after, a pod of, we think, whales swam past, they were a little way off but the photos show tall dorsal fins.

Finally we reached Kinlochbervie, the west coast’s most Northerly port. A picturesque port despite it being a fishing Harbour. The Almanac telling us there are full facilities for the visiting yachtsman, pontoons with water and electric, toilets, showers, laundry, fuel, what more could you ask for. Well a harbourmaster would be good for a start. Grumpy Gary the locals call him, wasn’t in his office which I eventually found in the fish market, and he wasn’t answering his phones.

So the electric points had padlocks on, the water point was miles away, the shower was in the fish market with the ceiling caved in, with a large sign on the door saying it was forbidden to wash your dog in the shower. It didn’t look like anything had been washed in it for months. Next the Laundry – a broken tumble dryer and an even more broken washing machine held together with masking tape. The toilets were OK, they were built in 1961 according to the plaque. You remember the public toilets at the park, that’s what they were like.

Lastly where do you get fuel. Well in this case you go to the chandlery, which was closed. A passing stranger asked what I was after, and having told him, he went off to the fish market to get Pete! Pete dispensed me some diesel on the quay. How much? Oh go to the chandlers, which is suddenly now open, to pay. Then lugg 40 litres of fuel half a mile back to the boat.

Time then for dinner+ bed. 5am start tomorrow, Rounding Cape Wrath and across the top of Scotland to Scrabster

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Day 38 June 5th Whitehills to Lossiemouth

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I was a bit nervous about going to Lossiemouth for a number of reasons. Firstly was we couldn’t contact them to ask about availability, (they don’t work weekends), and the almanac specifically says catamarans should phone ahead. Secondly the weather was due to build in the afternoon from the east and there are warnings against entering Lossiemouth in strong east winds. Thirdly there wasn’t an alternative plan that didn’t involve 4 more hours at sea.

A chat with Bertie the harbourmaster at Whitehills, allayed most of my worries, quote, “aye, tell them Bertie said it was ok”, plus I found a webcam showing a number of empty berths. So off we went.

There were no major hazards to watch for and the sun was shining and after an hour enough wind to hoist a sail.

We went past Logie Head, then the town of Cullen, home of cullen skink which sounds like a smelly animal, but is actually a delicious hearty fish soup dish made with smoked haddock and mashed potatoes. Then onwards past some fantastic rock formations, one called “Bow Fiddle Rock” see photo, “Durdle Door” eat your heart out

Logie Head
Cullen
Bow Fiddle Rock

As we entered Spey Bay the exiciment began. I was watching the seabirds congregating as they do when there’s food scraps, when I saw a splash, grabbing the binoculars I could see dolphins. These are the first we’ve come across in 800 miles of sailing, and what’s more they came to play around the boat, staying with us for about 15 minutes. I’m not sure what kind they were, but they were big.

Spey Bay is about 10 miles of glorious golden beach and we could see our destination at the end of it for what seemed like hours. About a mile out from Lossiemouth and directly in front of us was another conglomeration of seagulls. As we passed them there was a huge surge of water as a whale, from the fin shape probably a minke of which there have been several sightings in the area, surged though the flock of birds scattering them in all directions. This was no more than 30 meters from the boat. My only regret was I didn’t have the camera to hand.

Soon after we were on final approach to the harbour, and before long we were nosing into the marina. We found a berth without problem and were soon moored up.

We quickly tidied up and went exploring and found a street party which we joined for an hour before wandering up to look at the beach then to the shops for a few provisions. Back to the boat and Gin and Tonic in the conservatory before dinner.

With five straight days sailing every day we’ve gone from being behind schedule, to a little ahead, tomorrow’s a rest day.